We put our black and white filter on our phones and investigate and photograph our own locality for sites of gothic inspiration.
*All pictures taken by me*
The following three photos were taken in The Catacombs in Paris which shared more than 2000 of history. The name came from the Catacombs in Rome which was named after an ancient cemetery. It had thousands of skeletons of dead bodies of people.
Books Chris Brooks (1999). The Gothic Revival . London: Phaidon Press Limited. 10-14. Michael Fazio, Marian Moffett, Lawerence Wodehouse (2013). A World History Of Architecture. 3rd ed. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd. 214-220. Websites V&A. (2014). Gothic Architecture. Available: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/g/gothic-architecture/. Last accessed 30 Jan "Gothic Church Architecture". HistoryLearningSite.co.uk. 2014. Web. : http://www.historylearningsite.co.uk/gothic_church_architecture.htm
Inside the Notre-Dame
The architecture of Europe had no style at first and although there was some changes it had no style and had no name for it. The name 'Gothic' was first applied in the seventeenth century for the designs that were not followed by the rest of the classic architecture. The key elements in the Gothic style are the pointed arch and the rib vault. These elements were often used in large churches and cathedrals especially in Paris in the beginning which was then rapidly taken up by England in two famous buildings, Canterbury Cathedral and Westminster Abbey where the royal coronations took place. English Gothic buildings started to add their on decorations to the designs. The gothic architecture is beautiful, it is art. It shows so much skill and designs and it is inspirational. The cathedrals were build for a place of worship and God. They were made to give people peace, to make them feel loves and give them a sense of heaven. Just like gothic novels, gothic architecture makes a person feel in awe, it gives them a different sense of feeling as it is so mysterious but beautiful at the same time it makes the audience wonder and ask questions and want to find the answers. Architecture was the most important way of showing art in the Gothic period. I went on a trip with the Solent school of fashion to Paris and the place that I enjoyed visiting the most was the famous gothic cathedral, Notre-Dame which is over 800 years old. It is one of the most famous gothic cathederals. The cathedral of Notre-Dame began in 1155 to replace an older structure.
References
Books Jonathan Rigby (2000). English Gothic a century of horror cinema. Surrey: Reynolds & Hearn Ltd. 12-18. Websites Justin Tadlock. (2015). Gothic Fiction and Its Revelations. Available: http://justintadlock.com/writing/gothic-fiction-and-its-revelations. Last accessed 26 of Jan 2015. John Mullan. (2012). The Origins Of The Gothic. Available: http://www.bl.uk/romantics-and-victorians/articles/the-origins-of-the-gothic. Last accessed 26 of Jan 2015.
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0121807/ Gothic
Gothic fiction is a genre of literature that combines horror and romance, it is very fascinating and excited which makes the reader want to turn the page. Gothic is linked with literature but also architecture and this was because there was a backlash from the builders which led to the buildings to transform their simplicity into different shapes and designs which made them 'Gothic' and over the top. Gothic is supposed to make the audience feel extreme emotion as each writer tries to shock the audience by making the story into an interesting puzzle and then revealing the secret which gives the audience a thrill and leaves then in awe and seeking for more. Horace Walpole used the word 'Gothic' in a novel called ' A Gothic Story' which was published in 1764. The Novel is about the Prince of Otranto who falls in love with a woman who had marries his son. Walpole made his own house at Strawberry Hill into a 'Gothic' looking building and from then 'Gothic' became popular and people related elements of mystery and scary old buildings.
Some of the most famous Gothic Novelists are Horance Walpole who wrote the Castle of Otranto, 1764. Anne Radcliffe - The Mystiers of Udolpho, 1794.
Oscar Wilde- The picture of Dorian Gray, 1890.
Bram Stoker - Dracula 1897.
All of their aim was to give their reader a supernatural thrill and create a quest for atmosphere, they explore the theme of human mind and how it changes, develops, decays and mutates. English Gothic writers also related Gothic to the medieval times especially in Italy where it was especially famous to the point where they taught their kids all about the Gothic. However the Gothic transformed from being about space and then evolved to having fears of the body. The villains in Gothic Novels were corrupt monks however Charles Dickens transplanted them to modern Britain changing the Gothic to our current concerns such as problems of the poor and the their living environment under the theme of Gothic Horror/terror.
The key motifs in Gothic Horror : Strange places Clashing time periods especially in the Great Expectations Power and constraint A world of doubt Terror versus horror Sexual power The uncanny The sublime Crisis The supernatural and the real
'Gothic fiction gained popularity between 1765 and 1820' with further eruptions in the Victorian era- 1890. The boom in the genre of Gothic horror in the film industry in 1954-1975. Cinema balanced out the text book and filmography. Gothic genre became especially popular in England after 'The Curse of Frankenstein'. One of my favourite films was the sequel to 'Frankenstein', ' The Revenge Of Frankenstein'. The Make Up artist for the film was Phil Leaky who was a British make up artist who focused on special effects.
Michele Burke who is one of my favourite special effects make up artists worked on Bram Stokers Dracula, she has won 2 oscars and has been nominated for 6.
1. Joan Nunn (1200-1980). Fashion In Costume. Great Britain: Jolly & Barber Ltd, Rugby. 119.
2. Aurthor Unknown (1825). The Art of Beauty; Or, the Best Methods of Improving and Preserving the Shape, Carriage, and Complexion. . London: General Books LLC (2 Jan. 2012). 34.
3. Richard Corson (1965). Fashions In Hair The First Five Thousand Years. USA: Peter Owen Publishers. 514-546.
Websites-
1. Paxton Price. (2008). Victorian Dress and Victorian Style Clothing.Available: http://www.victorianchildren.org/victorian-dress-and-victorian-style-clothing/. Last accessed 20 of Jan 2015.
2. Kate Tattersall. (2012). Early Victorian Era Make-up:Cosmetics & Embelishments . Available: http://www.katetattersall.com/?p=3735. Last accessed 22 Jan 2015.
3. Chloè Campbell. (10/16/2013 ). Make Up: A History- The Victorian Era, The Gibson Girl Style. Available: http://hellogiggles.com/make-up-a-history-the-victorian-era-gibson-girl-style. Last accessed 26 of Jan 2015.
Unknown. (Unknown). Dressing the Part A Victorian Gentleman's Personal Guide. Available: http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/victorian-clothing-guide.php. Last accessed 24, Jan, 2015.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdnIY5aXSGA
Journal articles-
1. Unknown. (1894 ). Journal Fashion Culture and Fine Arts Victorian Era. The Delineator. 4 (4), 3.
Victorian Beauty Ideals - Fashion in Costume in the 1830's Women There was a fixated idea of what women should have looked like, therefore there was no worry about their comfort when they wore extremely right corsets, to exaggerate their waists and carry heavy underwires for hours. The process of getting dressed took hours,' the corset took two people to put it on and had to be very tight therefore limiting the breathing which made passing out common for women.' An example of the process of a woman getting dressed and the layers of clothing she would wear. Drawers, Chemise, Corset, Petticoat, Corset Cover, Bustle, Underskirt, Skirt, Bodice, Beaded Capelet, and the accessories such as hats and fans.
The definition of the ideal beauty was taken from features of Queen Victoria. The elegance she carried alongside of her height, which meant having a tall physique however there was a mixture as women started to get more independence and form more power, they were able to use their beauty for control over men which meant that men found physically attractive women threatening.
Being feminine was very important in this era women always wore layers of clothing with multiple petticoats which could add up to 15 pounds of weight. The petticoats were made out of muslin, calico or flannel with quilting of wire, horsehair or whalebone. The last layer of the petticoat had girly and feminine designs of ribbons and flowers. It was essential to make sure the ankles of women were covered as it could ruin ones reputation if otherwise.
The dresses that the women wore which consisted different colours and materials. The skirts have many different layers which was very heavy for them to carry. The corsets are extremely tight and some would get their ribs removed just so they could wear it. The colours in the beginning were very light however it then changed to from only children wearing the colour red to women also being allowed to wear them.
This is a portrait of the ideal Victorian woman compared to a prostitute of the Victorian Era. The woman in the first picture has long, long curls and is matched with a natural pale skin showing no make up in contrast to the woman in the picture on the right whose hair looks messy and her outfit shows skin on the ankles, stomach and chest which at the time would be seen as extremely vulgar and sinful.
(Joan Nunn (1200-1980). Fashion In Costume. Great Britain: Jolly & Barber Ltd, Rugby. 119.) English in 1934, Morning dress : Dark frock coats, light trousers a stripped waistcoat and a patterned cravat. In the late 1930's textures were popular and some of them were, satin, velvet and silk alongside with different designs such as flowers and feathers. In the Victorian era men dressed extremely formal unless they worked as a labourer or a workman. They wore coats, vests and hats. A typical everyday outfit for a man would be, a long coat with black trousers a modern white tuxedo shirt and modern square back boots.
Having long curly hair was seen as Godly in the Victorian era which is why women rarely cut their hair. There was also use of false hair as long hair was the ideal for them. Since the use of make up was disgorged women focused on hair and and a lot of attention was given to creating the ideal hairstyles. The scalp had to be clean as it was a part of the hygiene and also the canvas of creating a good hairstyle and also dirt could stop the healthy growth of the hair. Hair was shampooed once a month and groomed properly. Hairstyles were adjusted for different shapes of the face. 'The Newport knot' was a popular hairstyle. Fringes were worn on the sides of the face or upon the forehead depending on the shape of the face.
Hair accessories were very much in fashion such as combs, jewels, feathers, chains, diadems, flowers, pearls. Topknots were becoming more popular and hairstyles including them were in fashion. For the evening wear women used more jewels and detail in their hair, alongside with different materials such as ribbons and for daytime wear the hair was more toned down with different curls, but less jewels.
The parting of the hair was also played an important part to the hair as it varied depending on the shape of the face and also age of the person. Different types of parting included the hair fully scraped back out of the face, a V parting with hair coming down in a V shape from both sides. For children the hair could be parted from the side and the coiffure, 'the braid could be let down and allowed to hang free from the crown with a ribbon bow at the end.'
Hair also showed status which is why the hairstyle of servants were different to the hairstyles of wealth ladies. Although the same shape and idea that the wealthier women had was followed by servants it was not done carefully and neatly which suggested social status.
'As Leonardo da Vinci once said, “Hair is essential to a face as a frame is to a picture.” Hairstyles have evolved from a display of power and wealth to an expression of self and individuality. Hair has been used as a medium to make political statements, rebel against social norms, and to tell one’s story. Through the years hair has been braided, coloured, teased, and adorned to reflect not only the fashions of the day, but also the values of the era.'
Queen Victoria was a fashion icon, in the earlier days her hairstyle consisted of a plain plaits attached to the top of the head to create loops. The hairstyles started of being very neat and perfected but then evolved to more of a natural look with buns with curled hair on the sides of the head.
Around 1837, the coiffures could be worn low or raised up and the hair in front could be worn in bands or ringlets falling on each side of the face. A lot of women adapted the two large twists which are called ' à la Clothilde' which fell down halfway on the cheeks and then carried up towards the top of the coiffure.
À la Chinoise, front hair in bands with ringlet
By the 1850s women wore hairstyles incorporating hairpieces purchased from the new department stores. Towards the end of the 19th century, the Marcell Wave invented by Marcel Grateau’s “curling iron,” became a popular hairstyle which enabled to create a more natural looking wave as opposed to a curl. Victorians associated hair with life and love, therefore, it was traditional for women to incorporate lockets of hair into mourning jewellery after the passing of a loved one.
By 1856 there was various of new designs for coiffures which could have flowers, feathers pearls. By 1862 the new style for hair
Richard Corson (1965). Fashions In Hair The First Five Thousand Years.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdnIY5aXSGA
Hairstyles which the women wore in the Victorian era. The hairstyles in the early 1800's were mostly middle parted and simple and as time went on the hairstyles became more detailed and fancy as fashion developed. Some of the hairstyles included buns, plaits, frizzing, curling, padding, pin curls, french twists etc. There was also a massive use of accessories in the hair such as ribbons, flowers, pearls, headbands.
For the Victorians ones physical appearance played an extremely important part in their lives, this is because an item of clothing would categories a persons status and what they did for a living. In the 1800's religion as well as modesty was very important and especially after the rise of Queen Victoria in 1837 there was a major decline in the use of cosmetics as it was looked down on and considered to be something women with without morals would wear, however they still did use some cosmetics. Even though these weren't the most important factors of being an ideal victorian, they still took care of their hygiene, fashion and body sculpting. Even painters in the late 1850's portrayed women with a pale complexion, hairless, and a feminine body with curves to show youth and purity. As at the start, the Victorian era was about modesty and natural beauty however even then upper class women used make up to give their skin a glow however very sparingly. Eyeshadows and lispticks were very pale and ladies that were respected wore lighter make up with natural tones to achieve the desirable look of very feminine and elegant with very pale skin and long curls to show there purity, kindness and love.
As the Victorians cared very much of their appearance, how they dressed in their thoughts revealed their emotions and thoughts which is why for example, actresses and prostitutes who were considered to be the same thing, always wore heavy make up and their make up was seen as the 'tools of the devil'.
Cosmetics
Pale complexion was something all women desired to have as it showed signs of wealth because it showed that they did not get a sun tan from working outdoors which was something that was looked down on. Although wearing make up was not encouraged and negligible women still wore it and went to the extremes to achieve the ideal pale skin. Actresses wore more of a theatrical white base and and normal women wore a softer and more natural base. One of the ways was by using a white mineral powder made out of Zinc Oxdie. Women would also eat white chalk and stay out of the sun because having pale skin was that important to their appearance which a lot of the time could consequent deaths and diseases due to the high toxins applied to the skin. However when there was a large decrease in the use of make up women simply avoiding the sun and started drinking vinegar.
The tricks that were used by women to look paler was to draw blue lines on their face and necks to bring out the paleness even more. Make up was still used despite being looked down on, however sparingly to achieve a natural look. Eyeshadows were made out of lead and antimony sulphide and lipsticks were made from beet juice. Make up had to be applied very neatly to make it less obvious to achieve more of a 'natural beauty' look.
It was Queen Victoria who made the use of make up to be seen as disgraceful. In the 1940's a product called 'Crème Cèleste' became popular, which was a mixture of white wax made from an organ from a whale's head, sweet almond oil and rosewater. This paste improved the use of make up as it could moisturise the face, hide blemished and create a light glowy skin. Although the use of make up was frowned upon in the mid 1800's, appearance was one of the most important things to women and men which caused them to use extreme measures to achieve desirable skin, eyes, lips, cheeks, hygiene. ' Kate Tattersall 2012, favoured lightly coloured lip balm, subtle eye paint, and on overseen a dusting of pearl powder.
A woman's toiletry case, from the 1850's which included mirrors, scissors, tweezers etc. which shows how important a woman appearance was.
As stated by Kate Tatersall 2012 'Revealing the popularity of very pale complexions with rosy cheeks, somewhat red lips, and perhaps a bit of eye-liner. The most ostentatious adornment in these portraits is a pearl necklace.'
