Miss Havisham Hair

Miss Havisham Hair 

Miss Havisham had bridal flowers in her hair which means that she was dressed up for a wedding. Bridal flowers means a bridal hairstyle hence why I decided to go with a traditional beautiful Victorian hairstyle.
My main inspiration for the hair that I created for Miss Havisham was ringlet curles that was so popular in the 19th century.

I was inspired by this hairstyle created by Bunny who is a Youtube beauty guru. I really liked the sides of the hairstyle where it was curled and pinned back with lose hair hanging out from the sides which would look good for Miss Havishams character as she is only half dressed. Miss Havisham was also in a lot of chaos which would have caused her hair to fall out and become messy, however I had to be careful with how I made it look messy because Victorian hairstyles would have been done very professionally especially bridal hair making it very crisp and tight, which meant that I couldn't have it frizzed all over the place I needed to show a base of a beautiful Victorian bridal hair.

For the hairstyle i started of with a ponytail as a base and then started to curl the hair with very thing tongs and pin it up. I carried on like this for the rest of the hair and added flowers on the sides in the end. I am happy with how the hairstyle turned out as it looks very innocent and bridal which shows how Miss Havisham was before she was wronged. Although some of the curls ended up to be messy, in my opinion it still worked with the whole concept since Miss Havisham was described to look 'battered'.

To improve I would make sure that the middle parting is very crisp and obvious as it was a feature used in the Victorian era. Also I would work on hiding the pins better underneath the hair as it looks very unprofessional, I would do this by pinning the hair underneath different strands of hair. Lastly to complete Miss Havisham I would stain the flowers and make them look dusty to fit it with her surroundings because It would be weird if she was surrounded by dust and decay but the flowers on her head were white and clean.

Having completed a client consultation sheet for Harriet previously I already knew that her hair was very thick which is why i used the curlers on a higher heat.

List of products used :

- Cape

-Thin curlers

- Bobbi pins

- Sectioning clips

-Hair brush

-Hair mouse & Hair spray

-Bridal Flower clips

- Thin comb

Overall I was happy with the outcome because the hairstyle looked bridal which is how i wanted to portray, I was pleased with how the curls sat as i wanted them to be messy as when the time stopped Miss Havisham was in chaos which would result in her hair becoming lose and undone. Even though the pins are showing through the hair which is very unprofessional in the end I liked the outcome because it added on to the messiness of the hair.

Step by step in creating this hair style :

- Brush hair
-Create a middle parting and section it into 3 strands on each side and clip them aside
-Create a v shape parting down the middle of the hair and add a ponytail
- Split the ponytail into 4 parts and curl and pin it to the hair
-Curl the rest of the hair and pin it around the  ponytail
-Loosen up bits to make it look messy
-Add flowers

Estella Face Chart

This first look is to show the darkness of Estella and her at her oldest in the book when she tells Pip that she does not want to be with him. 

MODERN LOOK 

The products I used to create this look are :

Urban decay naked palette buck, naked, darkhourse, had baked

Bobbi brown - metallic longwear eyeshadow cream -  goldstone 

Anastasia beverlyhills dip bow- blonde 

Mac studio fix nw25

Rimmel - long lasting soft colour blush love pink 050

Nars- super orgasm

Brushes

Mac 224

Anastasia bevery hills 12 

Real technique expert face brush

Urban decay naked 

Kryolan 9362

Zoeeva 229-eyefinish

Real technique lip brush

For this look I focused more on the youthful side of Estella and the ideal Victorian make up which was minimal with pale skin, thin brow and rosy cheek and lip!


      PERIOD LOOK

The products I used to create this look are : studio fix nw25

Topshop lipstic - rio rio 

Anastasia beverly 

Nars super orgasm

Brushes

Mac 180

Bare minerals max coverage concealed brush

Real technique lip brush 

Estella make up in motion

Estella 

In class we looked at different ways in which we could create Estella because she has more than two sides to her. She is a lonely girl who has been brought up to hate men however in the end she does fall in love which suggests that she has feelings, on the other hand not at her fault Estella can be very cold and heartless which is why we created a make up look on our partner which contained one half of the face showing a good emotion and the other half showing a bad emotion.

                                                         

To start of I started to brainstorm good and bad things about Estella relating them into make up and how I could show the different emotions she is feeling through colour, texture and make up. 

For the one half of Estella's face I decided to keep very natural, ideal Victorian style make up. For the skin I applied a dewy primer and a tinted moisturiser to keep the skin very youthful and natural. I added freckles onto the cheeks to show an innocent and a cute side to Estella. I wanted to play around with creating tears but instead of creating normal tears or mascara running down the eyes I played around with tear stones which I was very inspired by Man Rey. I very much like the look of Queen Elizabeth and her signature look with the pale skin and rosy cheeks which is what I went with for the right side of the face. For the left side of the face I went with a strong and high arched brow to show anger. I also added heavy contouring which showed power. I didn't get to try out the black contacts but they would be perfect to show a really dark side of Estella and how Miss Havisham made her look at life. 

                                                                                                                

Miss Havisham look 2

For my final design of Miss Havisham I pretty much kept everything the same in my face chart only changing things that I found could be improved. I decided to go with one of the first appearances that Miss Havisham has in the book which is when was half dressed clearly for a wedding with bridal flowers in her hair and her clothes half on. I really like the idea of time stopping, therefore I decided to make her younger looking, till with wrinkles and deep hollow eyes as Charles Dickens portrayed her.

Having previously completed a client consultation sheet, I knew that my partner had dry skin therefore I asked her to exfoliate the night before. To prep the skin I used a moisturiser alongside with a primer to make sure that the application of the base goes on smoothly lasting until the end to take pictures. I applied a base 2 shades lighter than her actual skin colour to create a pale, ill looking complexion. I then worked on the eyes. I added red eyeliner into the waterline to create the illusion of puffy eyes this is because Miss Havisham had just been left at the alter, heartbroken which means that when the time stopped she stayed looking as she did when her fiance left her. I created deep shallow eyes to show her troubles and her worries and instead of using blue tones i decided to go with brown tones and this is to show lack of sleep. I applied vaseline underneath and on top of the lid for a glossy look, which in this case just added on to the puffiness and made her look like she was crying. I didn't want to exaggerator the wrinkles as my interpretation of Miss Havisham wasn't too old. For the eyebrows i created a high arch to show an angry expression which was what she was feeling after the time stopped, but also I wanted to show her cruelty and cold heart. Of course everything around Miss Havisham was rotten and decayed hence why I created the dry lips with eyelash glue adding on red on the inside of the lips and an ombrey effect of blue on the outside.

This look is to show Miss Havisham right after she was  betrayed and abandoned and left heartbroken and I feel as if this look shows that with the combination of the puffy crying eyes to the arched strong brow as well as the wrinkles to make her look old with the dry rotten skin to go with the themes of the book.

To improve, I will work more on the eyebrows as they look unrealistic. One reason for this is because i dint add white to the hair as well so it looks like as if she has only aged on her face and not her hair but also I feel like the application of the white on the eyebrows looks very messy so to improve I will use a lighter hand and add less product blending more. Although i really like the colour on top and underneath the eyes as it is a very matte colour, I feel as if the application again is messy and I think the reason for that was because I was trying so hard to get them to look neat and to look the same that it started to look unnatural so to improve I will take lighter hand but also apply it without thinking too much about getting it perfect. The dry skin on the lips could also be improved by adding more to make sure it comes out perfect on the camera. Lastly the most important factor is that the foundation will have to be applied all down the neck. I didn't spend a lot of time working on it as the light in class made it look like there wasn't much difference however it picked up on the camera instantly so application down the neck.

List of products used

Kryolan Supra Colour Palette
M.A.C face and body C1
Illamasqua loose base powder
Illamasqua Skin Base foundation SB 01
Anastasia Beverly Hills Dip Brow- Blonde
Anastasia Beverly Hills Dip Brow- Brown
Vaseline
Duo lash glue in white
Supra Colour OA
M.A.C Pro long wear Paint Pot- Tailor grey
Naked 1 palette

Brushes

Real Techniques - Blusher brush
Real Techniques- Concealer brush
Zoeva - Face sculpt 110
Zoeva eye finish 229
M.A.C - 100
Real Techniques eye definition brush
Kryolan - Kabuki brush
Kryolan 9716

Miss Havisham look 1

LOOK 1 PRACTISE

For the first look of Miss Havisham I wanted to focus on the theme of 'decay'. As Dickens emphasises in the book everything around Miss Havisham is decayed and rotten including her relationships, the Satin's house, her food and even herself. I started of by creating a patchy white base and then applying a lot of powder on top to take a way any glow that can make the look youthful. I then used yellow toned colours to create wrinkles on the sides of the forehead and around the eyes mostly. Going with the theme of rotten I decided to create dead skin that was hanging of the face most on the left side of the face. The reason why I kept it mostly on the left side on the face was because I wanted to show how the time stopped on the right side, when she was making and effort and getting ready for the wedding and the left side represented the future when the time had stopped and Miss Havisham spent all of that time in her wedding dress wearing the same make up rotten. 

I added red eyeliner in the water line to make her eyes look sore from all of the crying as she was heartbroken that her fiancé betrayed and abandoned her. A coat of mascara was used on her eyelashes however smudged a tiny bit on the eyelid to again show that she had been crying. I went with a simple Victorian cheek and lip on an overall pale skin as thats what Miss Havisham would have been trying to do for her wedding. I continued the sore dead skin around her mouth also to make it uncomfortable for people to look at her. When Pip meets her he feels uncomfortable and confused hence why I went with the nastier look. 

Products used

Kryolan Supra colour 

Essense red lip liner

MAC lip mix in red

Mary Kay mascara

Duo eyelash glue in white

The Victorian Angel Maker

Reference

Website

Sreeja VN. (2013). ‘Angel Maker’ Amelia Dyer Killed 400 Babies In 19th Century, Records Show. Available: http://www.ibtimes.com/angel-maker-amelia-dyer-killed-400-babies-19th-century-records-show-1101722. Last accessed 17 feb.
Pic. http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2013/02/23/article-0-179A7E22000005DC-928_634x798.jpg


The angel maker.

Amelia Dyer was seen as a woman who saved children, she was seen as a saint. Dyer would adopt children that parents could not look after taking the burden of raising a child in difficult conditions from the parents. This was before the truth was discovered. The name angel maker was given to her because she took lives of more than 400 children, butchering them and starving them to death, angel maker. These crimes were the most horrific crimes in the 19th century and she is still seen as the worst serial killer to this day.

The reason she was glorified so much before her real intentions came out was because she went after women who struggled financially offering help and promising a better life for their children in return for money.
The reason why I decided to research about the Victorian angel maker was because I relate her to Miss Havisham and I took inspiration from her to incorporate in my look of creating Miss Havisham. Amelia Dyer was needed the little helpless children to feel better about herself and of course she must have been crazy to have murdered them. Similar to Dyer, Miss Havisham needed and fed on playing around with Estella's feelings to make herself feel better about her heart break by teaching her to hate men and depriving her from love in the future. Miss Havisham was also a little crazy since she was obsessed with making Pip fall in love with Estella and telling her to stay away from him.
Miss Havisham in the Great Expectations was described as having tried to make an effort but no quite finished with it for example she had her hair done with the veil on her head however she hadn't finished getting dressed yet with one shoe not on which is similar to Amelia Dyer as can see in the photo she has a neat dress on with a bow on it with a hair piece, however her hair was lose on the sides showing the lack of time she spent on it. Also the eye bags underneath her eyes also show that she doesn't take care of herself to much which is what I incorporated in my Miss Havisham look. In my planning I decided to create a Victorian Bridal hair but have lose bits hanging on the sides as well as creating eye bags to show that she is troubled.

I created eye bags underneath my eyes using the mixture of the blue and brown colours on the Kryolan Supracolour palette. 

DEATH MASK

Death mask is a wax or a plaster made onto the persons face after their death. They are used to remember people or to help create portraits. In the 19th century death masks were used to identify the features of unknown dead bodies, which then helped them find out who they were.

'Inconnue de la Seine ("the unknown woman of the Seine") was a woman who's death mask became extremely popular after the 1900 which was sold in France and Germany and was so famous that people even hung it in their homes. The reason why her death mask was famous or even created in the first place was because of her beautiful smile which she still carried even when she was dead. She was said to be a peasant or even a bigger which was guessed through the hairstyle which she wore.

http://www.williamgaddis.org/recognitions/inconnue/

This is my own death mask. I focused on the shadows around the eyes as well as the shadows on the right side of her face. 

For the second death mask I went into more depth in creating the shadows and used black eyeshadow to create shadows. 

My interpretation of Miss Havisham

Given circumstances of Miss Havisham

To analyse and understand Miss Havishams character further i created a given circumstances for her.

In order to understand the character of Miss Havisham even more I created a board with different feelings that the book suggests Miss Havisham feels, some of them are: Depersonalisation, humiliation and revenge. 

Miss Havisham character analysis

Character Analysis

Miss Havisham has what people dream of, money. A lot of money. But of course not even a lot of money can fix a broken heart after she was betrayed, abandoned and dumped by her fiancé on her wedding day, hence why she becomes extremely bitter and hateful towards men which some can argue is only to protect herself from the way she was hurt by the one she loved. Miss Havisham sees a chance to cure her hurt and loneliness which is Estella, but not even a sweet innocent girl who puts her faith into Miss Havisham can change her resentment and instead she spends her life looking after Estella and making sure she hates men as much as herself, if not more. 

Of course in her eyes she was only protecting Estella, as Miss Havisham experienced so much betrayal in her life which unfortunately backfires on herself as it ends up hurting not only Estella and the boy she falls in love with, Pip, but also herself, hence why she asks for forgiveness in the end having realised that the entire male sex isn't all bad. 

Miss Havisham becomes obsessed with finding love, true love for Estella so since young age she always asks Pip to play with Estella, whilst at the same time making sure Estella hates men, therefore Pip. This shows that the bitterness in Miss Havisham has made her crazy but who can blame her when the love of her life abandoned her like that at the alter. But of course there are no excuses in making an innocent girl grow up with hate and loathe which raises the question if Miss Havisham has a good heart? However as Pip grows up Miss Havisham gets even more obsessed with making sure that he loves Estella by telling Pip to 'Love her' constantly. This in my opinion shows that Miss Havisham is caring, she wants to make sure that whatever happened to her will not happen to Estella which in my opinion shows the good side of her although a little crazy. 

Still her broken heart doesn't explain why she goes around ruining other peoples lives, especially Pip's who was just a boy who fell in love with Estella and went through changes of becoming a charming boy to impress her even more. On one side I think that Miss Havisham does all the bad because of her broken heart which for a girl or a woman especially on her wedding day is a hard one to get over which leads her to poison other peoples lives making them feel worse than she does, however I think there is more to it than just a heartbreak or just a hatred towards the male sex. Her rotten clothes, hair, surroundings and house shows that it is what she lives and breaths. I think that the time stopped when Miss Havisham was at her most hurt and spiteful which is why from then her mission was revenge. If Miss Havisham cannot even trust her own relatives who only want her money and constantly talk about her behind her back how is she supposed to trust anyone else and lets face it in the 19th century a woman's mission was to get married and be married so after all of that was taken away from her she had nothing left, not even relatives that cared about her or she even cared for.

To me it seems as if Miss Havisham wants to forgive and let Estella be happy because she tells Pip to love him however it appears to be the exact opposite because as she is trying to make Pip fall in love with Estella she is telling Estella' You cannot love him' as she is trying to feed of Pip's broken heart to make herself feel better about hers. 

The Art Of Death

Reference

Books
Helen Rappaport (2011). A Magnificent Obsession. Oxford: St Martin's Press. 1-30.


Website
Elaine Furst. (2013). 10 Fascinating death facts from the Victorian Era.Available: http://listverse.com/2013/02/07/10-fascinating-death-facts-from-the-victorian-era/. Last accessed 10 Feb 2015.

unknown. (Unknown). The Years Of Mourning. Available: http://www.sparknotes.com/biography/victoria/section5.rhtml. Last accessed 10 Feb 2015.

Picture ** http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gnJx96hlT-I/UZ9-JtaJd-I/AAAAAAAAf8w/4B5bhTvYP64/s1600/queen-victoria1.jpg

The Art Of Death


The deaths in the Victorian era occurred from strange reasons that we would not see today.

The death by the corset is an interesting one because we all know that women killed themselves to achieve the ideal beauty and went to extreme measures but we didn't think they actually killed themselves. In 1844 Jane Goodwin who was twenty two years old was carried to hospital where she later died because her corset was laced too tightly. Other deaths include the man who was suffocated by his own false teeth as he swallowed them by accident. Unfortunately childern were also affected by the deaths. In the Victorian era, death was something everyone would experience, from a child to an adult and a child living past 2 would be considered as lucky, since a lot of newborns would die whilst being born or a few months later. It was so bad that only 2 out of 10 children would live past 1 years of age.
Sine death was so common to in the 18th century people started to plan ways in which dying would be less unpleasant for the families. They preferred a slow death where the families would gather round the dying one and give them a chance to say goodbye.

After the deaths it was the mourning which played an important part and it became even more important after the death of Queen Victorias spouse Albert and the way in which she mourned his death. It was the most difficult time of her life which sent her into depression. Albert died in 1861 after being sick for weeks. This was the biggest heartbreak for Queen Victoria and she had no one to turn to as she wrote to her daughter "How I, who leant on him for all and everything—without whom I did nothing, moved not a finger, arranged not a print or photograph, didn't put on a gown or bonnet if he didn't approve it shall go on, to live, to move, to help myself in difficult moments?".

Mourning was how Queen Victoria death with his death and she did this by wearing all black for the next 40 years of her life. She rarely appeared in public and remained to herself as she couldn't face anyone. Albert's room stayed exactly the same as they were before he died and continued to be maintained as if he were still alive. His sheets would be changed everyday, his hot water would be brought in every morning for his morning shave.
From this period onwards was when mourning and keeping with traditions of deaths became very important in the victorian times. For women their dresses would be all black to show the state of grief but would change colours and fabrics over time getting lighter to show how long it had been since the death of a loved one and considering the fact that most people would have lost at least one if not more, loved one meant that people wore mourning dresses for most of their lives. Men wore black coats and hates with gloves.

When a loved one died there were a lot of things that were done to respect the dead and let them rest in peace. The curtains would be drawn to stop light from coming through and the clocks would be stopped at the time of death. Mirrors were also covered to stop the dead being trapped in the glass. The body of the dead was also watched by family members incase they woke up from the dead which was very important in the Victorian times as they had to make sure that the person was actually dead before burying them and even if they were sure they still would attach bells into the coffin in case of 'awake' where they would be 'saved by the bell'.

 Although things are not kept the same till this day, coming from an Armenian family most of these traditions which the victorians used as i mentioned above are still done to this day in my family. When a loved one days the mourners will wear black for the next 40 days, and leave the lights on for 7 days. The family will sit around the dead for a few days and all of the mirrors will be covered. Its interesting that although in this topic we are looking back into the history I still relate to it.

Photography in the Victorian era

'

http://www.viralnova.com/post-mortem-victorian-photographs/2/
The dead girl in the middle is more in focus than her parents. 

Photography in the Victorian era



Book reference 
Jean-Claude Lemagny And Andrè Rouillè (1987). A History of Pgitography. UK: Cambridge University Press. 15-17.

David Company (2012). Photography The Whole Story. United States: Prestel Publishing. 49-59.
Websites


At the end of eighteenth century photography entered the scene and it was most popular in the more advanced countries, politically and economically, France and Britain. Photography played an important part in society as it was used for evidence and was said to be 'part of the truth', a physical trace of evidence. 
Queen Victoria was the first British monarch to be captured on camera but when she took the throne in 1837, the first photographs were just being taken, and this was the time where technology developed and photos became more professional and
popular.

Photography was used to document scientific experiments and demonstrations such as hypnotism.
The Victoria Era was an abnormal era in human history having said that most mortem photography was very common in the 19th century.
Photographing the dead was a tradition in the Victoria era because of the child and infant mortality rate, photographing them dead was a way of memorialising the lost family members and saying goodbye for the last time. Post mortem photos most of the times were the only times people were photographed.
To show religion a cross would be involved in the photo and placed in the hands of the person being photographed, flowers were also used as props. To give the deceased a little life, eyes and pupils would be drawn on and they would be posed in life like positions.
Women played an important part in the early years of photography, they were creative and determined. Julia Margaret Cameron, Lady Hawarden and Anna Atkins were well educated. Even though they weren't professional photographers they helped to transform the world of art in the Victorian era.


'The two women posed with a chair' 1850.

I love this photo because of its detail. The lighting
shows different tones but all focused on grey. The
chair is almost black with white on the outline but its the lighting on the face that i love. The light is hitting all the right parts of the face such as the forehead chin nose underneath the eyes which adds a glow to the two girls even though the photo is in black and white. The quality of the photo and alongside with the way they are dressed suggests that they are wealthy.

There was a focus on the face as the light is very flattering and its mellow. The hairstyle was before the changes in hair and at the start of 'daguerreotypy' although it was in the 1850's where the over the ears loose curly hairstyles came in.